A Guided Tour of Historic Chatham

Originally written by Herman Melton, slightly revised to reflect recent changes.

In addition to its stately courthouse, beautiful homes and quaint restaurants, Chatham has quite a colorful history...

Out-of-town visitors to Chatham are probably unaware of a service provided by the Pittsylvania Historical Society. A request for a guided tour of Chatham and its environs is as easy as dropping in at the Chamber of Commerce office [located at 38 Main Street]. The staff there can call the number of the society's guide on duty who will be present shortly.

The tour is free, but the visitor must furnish the transportation for reasons of insurance and liability. This arrangement means that the type of vehicle determines the number who can be accommodated at one time.

Pittsylvania County Courthouse

The tour begins on foot at the Pittsylvania County Courthouse, which was erected in 1853. Here the visitor is shown the bronze plaque that hangs outside on the wall at the northwest corner of the building. The inscription tells the visitor that the courthouse was designated a National Historic Landmark by the National Park Service in 1987 in commemoration of the bicentennial of the founding of the U.S. Constitution.

The designation came from the fact that the courthouse contained the office of County Judge Doddridge Coles who was arrested by a U.S. marshal on a bench warrant issued by a federal district judge in Danville in March of 1879.

Judge Coles was charged with violation of the 14th Amendment of the Constitution when he failed to include the names of African-American men on jury lists. Judge Coles took his case (Ex Parte Virginia) to the U.S. Supreme Court and a landmark decision that upheld the action of the federal judge was handed down on March 15, 1880.

If court is not in session, the visitor may view the inordinately beautiful and well-preserved courtroom where portraits of notable and historically important county people grace the walls. Among these is that of native-born Rachel Donelson, the wife of President Andrew Jackson.

While at the courthouse, the visitor is shown the county clerk's office where unusually good genealogical records are stored. Remarkably detailed and complete deed books, marriage records, court order books, old survey books, land books (tax lists), Civil War muster lists, wills and account current books are a gold mine for those is search of records of their ancestors.

Most visitors find this clerk's office the very finest they have seen.

Chatham Town Hall

Visitors may now board the auto or walk a block west to view Chatham Town Hall that faces the courthouse.

Behind this late 19th century brick former residence, which sits on the site of an earlier county courthouse, is the 1813 county clerk's office. It was restored to its original size and shape and dedicated in 1986. It houses a mini museum that contains artifacts dating back to the American Revolution.

However, its most valuable and well-preserved items are of Civil War vintage. For example, the visitor can view the well-preserved uniform of Col. Rawley Martin CSA, whose home will be seen later.

1813 Clerk's Office

The 1813 clerk's office is the regular meeting place of the Pittsylvania Historical Society, which maintains the property and was responsible for its restoration. Behind the museum is the beautiful and well-equipped town park, which is a busy place in the summer. The park was completed almost solely by volunteer labor.

Sims-Mitchell House

If the visitor is looking for a comfortable bed & breakfast for lodging, the next stop may be the historic Sims-Mitchell House on Whittle Street.

Pittsylvania County Library

From there, it is a short drive to the new, spacious and well-equipped Pittsylvania County Public Library. Here is located a rather remarkable genealogical book section and many volumes on Pittsylvania County history. These books cover subjects from the Revolution to modern times by 10 county historians whose works have been published from 1929 to present.

The lover of fiction will also find an historical novel or two based on county history. A score or more of non-circulating local family histories are permanently on file. The periodical and reading sections are well equipped and relaxing.

Hargrave Military Academy

A drive-through of the spacious and manicured grounds of Hargrave Military Academy is next on the agenda. The school was founded in 1909 as a boys' training school. Its classrooms are now co-ed and the institution has developed into one bearing credentials of academic excellence.

The visitor will also want to take a peek at Owen Cheatham Chapel and at the aquatic center that boasts one of the best Olympic-size pools on the East Coast. It is the site of many swim meets.

Former Swanson House

From Hargrave, the tour continues out Military Drive and on to Chalk Level Road which leads some two miles to a drive by what was formerly known as Eldon: The Inn at Chatham, but has now returned to use as a private residence.

The oldest section of the mansion was erected in the 1830's by the prominent Whittle family who became wealthy from land and timber in antebellum days.

However, the most illustrious and famous owner was Claude Augustus Swanson. He was a state legislator, U.S. Congressman, Virginia governor, U.S. senator and Secretary of Navy under President Franklin D. Roosevelt. Swanson acquired the property at the turn of the century and used it as a summer home.

The property was next owned by members of the Whitehead family from 1946 until its conversion in 1992 to a luxury B&B and restaurant. It returned to use as a private residence in 2002.

Chatham Hall

Next the visitor is guided on a drive-through of Chatham Hall, a 104-year-old girls' preparatory school. A view of its well-kept grounds and elegant neoclassical buildings are worth the visit.

People with interests in horses will marvel at the modern and well-equipped equine center that contributes enormously to the well-rounded school curriculum.

Saint Mary's Chapel is the scene of many weddings and religious ceremonies and Lee Library not only serves the school, but the entire community as well.

Upon leaving Chatham Hall, a drive by the charming rectory may lead one to believe that it is the most beautiful residence in Chatham.

Planetarium

Returning to town, the visitor may wish to stop at the planetarium, which is owned by Pittsylvania County Schools. It is used for educational purposes, but on occasion, it presents programs for the public. Here is one of Virginia's few planetariums and its nearest rival is the Morehead Planetarium on the University of North Carolina campus at Chapel Hill, NC.

"Oak Hill" the Mansion

The next attraction sits on a hill overlooking the intersection of Franklin Drive and South Main Street. "Oak Hill" the mansion was originally built by Chatham merchant, James Poindexter in 1837.

It later became the home of a physician, Col. Rawley Martin who led Company I (known as the Chatham Greys) of the 53rd Virginia Regiment up Cemetery Ridge in Pickett's Charge at Gettysburg. He and his men had the distinction of reaching the most advanced Confederate position in the battle, but were forced to retreat after losing most of their number as dead and wounded.

Recent owners have both restored, expanded and modernized the buildings.

House of Laird

A short distance back toward the village center sits the imposing House of Laird, a bed and breakfast.

The "Columns"

A block or so north on the west side of Main Street is the popular "Columns," a Victorian gem. This is another well-furnished and well-run bed and breakfast. The current owners and genial hosts are Fred and Sandy Turner.

End of Tour

A minimum of 40 minutes have been consumed and the tour ends at this point... unless there is a mill buff in the crowd.